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Matsuzakaya Honten

Review by Jenner · Stayed May 12–14, 2026 · Ashinoyu, Hakone

Ashinoyu, Hakone — one of Japan's oldest ryokan. Saigo Takamori is said to have visited in secret; Emperor Meiji stayed.

My score: 4.3 / 5
4.0 and up gets my stamp.

Stay
May 12–14, 2026 · 2 nights
Room
Premium Tokiwa
Bath
Private open-air onsen, attached to the room
Meals
Kaiseki dinner + breakfast included
Dining
Private booth — staff brought blocks for our two-year-old
Getting there
Drove from Tokyo, ~2.5 hrs · no regular shuttle
Known for
One of Japan's oldest ryokan; history display inside
Nearby
Gora Park · Fujiya Hotel (lunch visit)

The stay, in my words

Jenner in a yukata at Matsuzakaya Honten — standing beside the ryokan's samurai armor display, drink in hand
Me at Matsuzakaya — yukata on, drink in hand, next to the armor display inside the ryokan.

Why I booked this one

One of the biggest reasons for choosing Matsuzakaya was the private open-air onsen attached to our room. I've always loved staying at a traditional Japanese ryokan, particularly when you can enjoy the hot springs without leaving your room.
— Jenner — Matsuzakaya Honten, Ashinoyu · May 2026

01 · Arrival

Arrival

Two nights, May 12–14, 2026, based here the whole time. The garden path runs in from the gate — pine tree, stone water basin, and the forested hillside right behind the building.

The entrance gate of Matsuzakaya Honten in Ashinoyu, Hakone — a wooden gate with a dark blue noren curtain bearing the ryokan's crest, under a clear sky
The gate at Matsuzakaya Honten, Ashinoyu.
The garden at Matsuzakaya Honten — a curved gravel path past a pine tree and a stone water basin, with the ryokan building and the forested hillside behind
The garden at Matsuzakaya — the path in from the gate, hillside behind the ryokan.

02 · The room

The room

We booked the Premium Tokiwa — a tatami room with a low wooden table and garden views through glass doors on two sides. Dinner and breakfast were included, and our reservation was for five guests.

The Premium Tokiwa room at Matsuzakaya Honten — a tatami room with a low wooden table, paper-screen doors, and garden views through glass doors on two sides
The Premium Tokiwa — our room for two nights.

03 · The bath

The bath

The private open-air onsen is attached to the room — a dark tiled bath on a wooden deck, looking out to green trees. Inside the ryokan there's also Manemon-onsen, the Ashinoyu spring, with its round window framing a red maple in the garden.

The private open-air onsen attached to the Premium Tokiwa room at Matsuzakaya Honten — a dark tiled bath on a wooden deck, looking out to green trees
The private open-air bath, attached to our room.
The round window at Manemon-onsen in Matsuzakaya Honten — a wooden sign reading Manemon-onsen above a circular window framing a red maple in the garden
Manemon-onsen — the Ashinoyu spring's round window, inside the ryokan.

04 · The history inside

The history inside

Matsuzakaya is one of the oldest ryokans in Japan. Distinguished figures such as Saigo Takamori and Emperor Meiji stayed here. The display inside explains the history and the gifts the ryokan received, including the large mirror that Meiji stood in front of.

A history display panel at Matsuzakaya Honten with Japanese text and portraits of Saigo Takamori and Kido Takayoshi
The history display at Matsuzakaya — Saigo Takamori's portrait is on the left.

05 · The food

The food

Our stay included traditional Japanese dinners and breakfasts. The kaiseki meal was served in a private booth. The staff were exceptionally accommodating — they even brought blocks to entertain our two-year-old while we enjoyed our meal.

A kaiseki course at Matsuzakaya Honten — fish and vegetables in a black lacquer bowl on a tray, with chopsticks and a glass of water on the wooden table
A kaiseki course, served in our private booth.

06 · Out from the ryokan

Out from the ryokan

We visited Hakone Gora Park, the Hakone caldera, and Hakone Shrine between soaks. We also went over to the Fujiya Hotel in Miyanoshita — we had lunch there and walked around. We didn't stay there, but the building alone is worth the stop.

Hakone Gora Park — the fountain pond and flower gardens seen from above, with the green Hakone mountains behind
Hakone Gora Park — the fountain pond and gardens, mountains behind.
The Fujiya Hotel in Miyanoshita, Hakone — the grand historic hotel building with green copper roofs, dark timber framing, and red balcony railings under a clear blue sky
The Fujiya Hotel, Miyanoshita — we had lunch there and visited. We didn't stay there.

The verdict

Book it — book the Premium Tokiwa, for the bath. An old house with real history (Saigo Takamori's secret visit, an emperor's stay, the display to prove it), food that takes a toddler in stride, and Gora Park and a Fujiya Hotel lunch within easy reach. 4.3 — I'd send my own family, and I'd book it again. — Jenner